Holy Saturday in the Holy City

Holy Saturday in the Holy City

Sit down with a cup of coffee for this one!

Saturday of Holy Week we attended the Orthodox (Greek, Russian, Egyptian, Armenian...) Ceremony of Holy Fire at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.  In the Orthodox traditions all the sanctuary fires are extinguished on Good Friday, and in this part of the world, at least, relighted from a new fire that is miraculously kindled in the tomb of the Holy Sepulcher on Holy Saturday.  Thousands gather from all over Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Asia to witness the Holy Fire, and some come to take it home to relight those sanctuary fires on Easter Sunday. 

We left the college 8:30, walked around the Old City, and waited behind a security barrier until about 10:30.  

Waiting Behind a Security Barrier

Dressed for Holy Fire!

The Israeli security guards found entrance ID’s for our pilgrims, waved the clergy in, then, at the last minute, let Judy in--they said that with her black shawl, black jersey and black skirt, she could pass for a nun!

We walked from the Zion Gate to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, arriving about 11:00.  The security gates were closing right behind us, so we thought we might be the last to enter.  But when we got to the outer courtyard, there were thousands more waiting to enter.

About 11:15 more folks came in, and the pushing and shoving began.  About 11:30 another group entered, and the pushing and shoving became quite intense.  When things settled down a little, I made acquaintances with some folks from Egypt on my right from Russia on my left.  Then, about 12:00 noon, some folks showed up who bullied their way through the very densely packed crowd until they were up front. (I now understand that it is a kindness that they kill sardines before they put them into cans.)  By 12:10 the temperature in the crowd must have 98.6.  Waiting was excruciating.

The Procession Begins!

At a few minutes before 2:00 a great procession began around the tomb.   Then at 2:00 all the lights were turned off.  A few minutes after 2:00 the Greek Patriarch entered the tomb, followed shortly by the Armenian Patriarch.   (We couldn't see any of that.)  After a minute or two, they emerged with the Holy Fire.  They passed the flames to others, who passed it outward to the crowd.  Almost everyone was carrying at least one bundle of 33 candles (one for each year of Jesus’s life), so within seconds the church was brightly illuminated.   Within minutes it was also full of smoke.  As the passing of the fire began, there was a huge surge toward the tomb.  As the fire spread, there was a surge away from the flames.

It took nearly a half hour of being pushed and shoved to exit the smoke-filled church.  We left hot, exhausted, dehydrated and famished.

I think there were at least 10,000 inside the church for the ceremony.

The Ceremony Begins

About 8:00 in the evening, we attended the Ethiopian Easter Vigil (part of it anyway) on the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.  

The Light Grows.

Again the crowd was huge, and since the ceremony lasted for hours and hours, the Israeli security folks let groups up to the roof-top as crowd conditions allowed.  Our little group was among the few non-Africans on the roof-top during our time there.  We were welcomed with smiles, and made to feel at home.  A ceremony was taking place across the roof top, which seemed to involve lighting candles.  Soon the light was overcoming the darkness, and people were sharing their candles with us. 

The Darkness Is Overcome.

 A great procession began around one of the rooftop domes, with folks in elaborate costumes, a large banner, umbrellas (apparently at trademark of Ethiopian celebrations), and an elaborate processional cross and drums.  

The Great Procession

Before long folks were dancing in the procession, and our Course Director, Rodney, was pulled out of our little island of non-Africans and into the dance.  

One of Many Umbrellas

After a little more than an hour we made our way out, and others were allowed into the celebration.  I don’t know how many folks attended the Vigil, but I’m sure the party went on for a long time.  I smiled all the way back to Saint George’s College.